Rome (If You Want To)

As promised, I’m putting up a couple of photos taken during our quick trip to Rome last week.   But first, a brief digression.

Years ago, when Barb and I began travelling together, we would return from trips to find the photos we’d snapped were either of Barb in front of something, or me in front of something, or featured neither one of us.  We rarely had any of us together.  And that was because we just never seem to get around to asking random tourists or locals, “Would you take our picture?”

I don’t know why we don’t ask this; as DC residents, we’ve been asked hundreds of times to snap photos of strangers in front of the Lincoln Memorial or Smithsonian, and don’t find it an inconvenience at all.  Yet, we never think to bother anyone with a similar question when we’re travelling.   Consequently, we were returning from trips with lots of great photos, but with absolutely zero indication that we were ever actually there because we weren’t in any of them.  They were photos that looked like  postcards.

So we decided to start bringing along the pets.com (remember them?) sock puppet and take pictures featuring him.  He’s photogenic, absolutely incapable of taking a bad picture, and he cracks us up.  We get lots of stares when we’re standing in front of some iconic structure as Barb fearlessly waves Sock Puppet around and I try to shoot the photo without laughing too hard. 

Right.  Now that you’ve got some context, here we go:

First up, the remains of the Roman Forum, an impressive field of fallen marble arches, broken columns, and crumbling foundations that still provide a tantalizing hint of what must have been a glorious open space for debating politics, arguing philosophy, or just people watching.

The remains of the Roman Forum.

The remains of the Roman Forum.

As we made our way around the Roman capital building, we came across a vocal and somewhat rowdy protest.  We’re still not entirely sure what they were protesting, but it was an enthusiastic crowd, regardless.

Pincherle ovunque!!

Pincherle ovunque!!

Next up was a stroll past the Colosseum, one of Rome’s most impressive sites and dangerous traffic circles:

Today's score: Lions 14, Trojans 7.

Today's score: Lions 14, Trojans 7.

That evening, I attempted an Artsy Photo of St. Peter’s, taken from a bridge crossing the Tiber, about a mile away. 

St. Peter's Basilica, night.

St. Peter's Basilica, night.

We made an easy trip through Vatican City, likely due to colder-than-usual weather, which kept the crowds away.  The square in front was relatively deserted.

St. Peter's Basilica, taken from St. Peter's Square.  Alas, the Pope was not at home.  And I had a good knock-knock joke for him, too.

St. Peter's Basilica, taken from St. Peter's Square. Alas, the Pope was not at home. And I had a good knock-knock joke for him, too.

Even to this decidedly non-religious tourist, St. Peter’s was an impressive and truly inspiring building, with some amazing art — including Michelangelo’s Pieta, shielded behind plate glass but still a marvel to behold:

Michaelangelo's Pieta.

Michelangelo's Pieta.

And finally, as we made a quick tromp up the stairs in the Keats-Shelley house — the house where the poet John Keats lived and died, just off to one side of the famous Spanish steps — I caught sight of this framed bit of paper, listing “Americans in Rome in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries”:

Washington Irving makes a cameo appearance on our Roman holiday.

Washington Irving makes a cameo appearance on our Roman holiday.

Yup, a cameo appearance by Washington Irving.  Perhaps I’ll devote a bit of space here shortly to Irving’s brief time in Rome.  He spent only slightly more time in the city than we did, yet nearly changed careers, thanks to his friendship with the painter Washington Allston.  But that’s a story for another day.

Roman Holiday

We returned from our quick sprint through Rome last night, boarding our plane in Rome on Saturday night at 4:00 p.m., Maryland time, and finally arriving at BWI yesterday afternoon. We’re exhausted, and I’m nursing a weird cross between allergies and a head cold (and my ears have yet to unplug from the pressure change on the airplane), but the trip was a rousing success.

Despite the brevity of our visit and the time Barb had to devote to her conference, we still managed to hit all the big sites in the area, snapping lots of photos (a few of which I might post here) and dodging speeding Roman traffic.  Roman pedestrians, we found, are absolutely fearless about stepping off a curb into the whoosh of traffic, casually holding up one hand to slow oncoming traffic even as they step directly into the path of a speeding Fiat.  We felt rather wimpy standing there — in a crosswalk, no less — waiting helplessly for traffic to break, before finally following close behind an elderly gentleman who went around us and stepped in front of  a screaming milk truck, confident it would stop if he barely raised his hand.  And it did.

The weather was colder than normal — we seem to have a knack for hitting places during an unseasonable spell of weather — but the cold also kept the sites virtually free of vistors, so we were able to get into the Sistene Chapel and St. Peter’s with absolutely zero wait.  Our only real disappointment came when we located the church of San Luigi dei Francesi and found that the three Caravaggio paintings in the Contarelli Chapel were being restored and were therefore unavailble for viewing. 

But we’ll be back — we know so, because we threw coins over our shoulders into the Trevi Fountain.

Across the Sea, Across the Tracks

There’ll be a shortage of posts over the next week, as Barb and I are off this afternoon for Rome.  Yes, as in Italy. She’s been asked to present at some Super Technical International Science Conference, all expenses paid, and I get to tag along.  It’s the first time in Italy for both of us, so we’re both looking forward to it. I’ll relate any good stories when we get back.

We had a wonderful evening last night down at the Kennedy Center, where Barb, Madi and I had the pleasure of seeing Wynton Marsalis and the Jazz at Lincoln Center Orchestra. I’ve been a fan of Wynton’s dating all the way back to Black Codes From The Underground, yet until last night, I had never had the opportunity to see him live. And boy, he didn’t disappoint. He promised to get the Kennedy Center “swinging,” and that he did for the next three hours, with one of the hottest bands you’ll ever see.

But don’t take my word for it. Here’s Wynton and the Jazz at Lincoln Center Orchestra* swinging to Duke Ellington’s “Across The Track Blues.” Enjoy, and I’ll see you next week.

* Ignore the fact that whoever posted the video spelled Marsalis’s name as “Winton.” It makes me crazy, too.

Monday Mumblings

It was a long weekend, even though it feels like it should still be Sunday. Where did the weekend go?  Oh, wait.  I remember.

We spent all day yesterday just north of Baltimore, where Madi’s volleyball team was competing in a 15-team, all-day tournament.  Even though Madi and her teammates are all 13-years-old and younger, they were playing teams of 14-year-olds — and still came out of their bracket undefeated.  They ended up losing in the semifinals to a terrific team — who, in my fatherly opinion, caught all the good calls from a remarkably crummy and obviously blind down ref — but managed to hang tough, even requiring their opponent to score 27 points in order to beat them by the necessary two.  Madi’s been playing en fuego lately — no errors on sets, several kills and even a few good blocks — and I’m really proud of her.

In other Madi news,  I’m taking her to the orthodontist this afternoon for her pre-braces visit.  To her credit, Madi’s actually excited at the idea of getting braces.  I guess it’s because they look so different than they did in our day, where braces made it look like you had a mouth full of aluminum foil.  Now, it seems, they’re practically cool.  They still ain’t cheap, though.  Man, where are my foreign rights when you really need them?

Following our orthodontically exciting afternoon, we’re heading downtown this evening to go see Wynton Marsalis at the Kennedy Center.  We bought the tickets ages ago, when March seemed years away, and they’ve been hanging on our fridge until this morning, when Barb put them in my wallet so I don’t forget them tonight.  Because I have done that before.

And how’s your Monday shaping up?

Number Nine…Number Nine…Number Nine

beatles2On September 9, 2009, The Beatles: Rock Band hits the shelves. 

You really have to ask?  Heck yes, I’ll be getting it.  Considering Rock Band was one of the driving factors behind our decision to invest in a game system in the first place, adding the Beatles to the mix makes it pretty much the ultimate win.  And no, I am not one of those fans who is wailing that it ruins the Beatles’ legacy to make them part of a video game.  Stop spoiling my fun and get offa my lawn.

According the the official press release from Apple:

The Beatles: Rock Band will allow fans to pick up the guitar, bass, mic or drums and experience The Beatles’ extraordinary catalogue of music through gameplay that takes players on a journey through the legacy and evolution of the band’s legendary career.

As if that weren’t cool enough, however, there’s also this, from the OMG ARE YOU SERIOUS? category:

In addition, The Beatles: Rock Band will offer a limited number of new hardware offerings modeled after instruments used by John Lennon, Paul McCartney, George Harrison and Ringo Starr throughout their career.

Because I have the coolest wife on the planet (this is the one who got me Absolute Watchmen for Valentine’s Day, remember), I’ve already been assured that we will, indeed, be purchasing the limited edition, with all the instruments.  Awesome.

The best part is that I’ve got a 12-year-old — soon to be 13! — who loves both Rock Band and the Beatles, so convincing her to take a crack at a Perfect Solo! in “While My Guitar Gently Weeps” shouldn’t be too hard. 

Now I’ve got to learn to play bass left-handed, as there’s something fairly sacriligious about playing a Hofner Beatle bass right handed.  Unless, of course, my lefty daughter decides she doesn’t want to play Lennon’s black and white Rickenbacker, and hands rhythm guitar duties over to me so I can strum away madly on “Help!” while she rocks out the bass line on “Day Tripper.”

Have a great weekend.

Sorry, I’m Allergic…

Growing up, it seemed there was always one kid in my school who was allergic to everything.  He couldn’t play ball because he was allergic to grass.  He couldn’t come to my house because we had a dog.  He couldn’t drink chocolate milk because he was allergic to all dairy products.  He wielded his puffer like a six-shooter, braced and ready at the first sign of wheezing to jam it in his mouth and pump it.

My patience always wore thin with this kid. I didn’t have allergies, so I didn’t really understand.  It always seemed like all he  was really after was attention, not medical care.  The last straw for me was when he claimed to be allergic to both his mother and the television.  Punch my ticket, I’m getting off here. 

As I said, I didn’t understand, because I didn’t have allergies.  Or so I thought.

As I got older, I discovered that, like the other Jones men — namely my dad and my younger brother — I have a slight allergic reaction to fruit.  But not all fruit, just apples.  And it’s not one of those oh my god I can’t breathe! or I’m breaking out in hives! allergic reactions; instead, it just makes me sweat slightly below both eyes.  With my dad, it’s tomatoes, and with my brother, it’s oranges.  It’s not enough of a discomfort to stop any of us from eating apples, tomatoes, or oranges, but it is noticeable.

I thought that was the extent of it for me and allergies — until I moved to the Washington, D.C. area and discovered I had a much stronger allergic reaction to . . . (wait for it) . . . cherry blossoms.

Yup.  I apparently had a latent, unknown allergy to the humble white cherry blossom — an allergy that was happy to lie there sleepily in Albuquerque, New Mexico, where there was nothing to disturb it.  So naturally, I moved to the Cherry Blossom Capital of the World. The allergy sprang eagerly, enthusiastically, to life.

For the first few years I lived here, I simply thought I had the flu every March, before finally realizing my stupidity.  Now, of course, I have come to accept the fact that I can tell you — with a surprising degree of accuracy — the very minute that the very first cherry tree surrounding the Tidal Basin at the Jefferson Memorial has dared to bud.  First the sneezing starts, then it’s the itchy eyes, followed by two week’s worth of constant *ahem*ing.

It’s not misery, just massive discomfort for the next four weeks.  And, if I may say so to that kid with the puffer: it serves me right.

Reviews in Brief: Chaplin: A Life (Weissman)

chapalifeI’m normally wary of biographies that attempt to put their chosen subject “on the couch.”   I know it’s tempting, when writing about artists, writers, or other creative people  to try to view their work through the gauze of life experience, explaining their art in the context of childhood traumas, distant parents, or failed relationships.  There are some no-brainers out there, certainly — one could hardly write about Edgar Allan Poe or Vincent Van Gogh, to name only two, without looking into inner demons that ended up screaming at the public from the page or canvas.

It gets harder, however, with figures that, for the most part, aren’t quite as haunted or tormented. But that doesn’t mean biographers haven’t tried.   Some Disney biographers, for example, have claimed that Walt Disney obviously had a contempt for women and deep-seated abandonment issues, since several of his early films featured evil mother-figures or mothers who are dead or otherwise unavailable.  It doesn’t matter that Disney’s own life story doesn’t really seem to bear that out; once you’ve got him on the couch, you can use his body of work to explain away anything.  That was the sort of thing that nearly ruined David Michaelis’s otherwise dynamite Schulz and Peanuts for me — Michaelis tried, I thought, a bit too hard to use the Peanuts strip to explain Schulz’s psyche.  It was a valiant effort, but I just didn’t buy it.

And that, ultimately, is my problem with On The Couch biographies:  I don’t like being told that every inch of an artist’s output — whether it’s on film, on audiotape, on canvas, or on the printed page — is a channeling of some remote glob of their psyche, or reflects a subconscious effort to work out some personal issue.  I  believe you can understand an artist’s life by looking at his work; it’s more difficult and dangerous, however, to try to use an artist’s work to explain away an artist’s life.  Ideally, one must view the artist through the prism of both the life and the art together.

That’s a roundabout way of saying that I was skeptical of Dr. Stephen Weissman’s Chaplin: A Life. It’s true that Chaplin, with his mess of a private life and in-your-face politics, practically begs his biographers to put him on the sofa — a challenge to which Chaplin biographer David Robinson all but explicitly refused to rise.  But on the other hand, I did not want to be told that every Chaplin film was merely another psychological exercise in which Charlie either consciously or subconsciously tried to come to terms with some childhood trauma.

Well.  In his first chapter, Weissman — a for real psychiatrist, and not just playing one on TV — immediately put such concerns to rest.  Reading every Chaplin film or sketch as a therapy session, says Weissman,

“. . . does little to advance our undertstanding of how the creative process operated . . . It assumes that the comic mind operates as a seething id-cauldron automatically transforming childhood fears into schoolboy gags which are periodically belched and farted up from the steamy depths of the unconscious.”

Bingo.  That’s exactly what I wanted to hear — and that’s precisely why Weissman’s book works so spectacularly well.  Weissman doesn’t explain away every moment on film in psychological terms;  rather, he helps the reader understand why Chaplin makes particular comedic or artistic decisions, and where in his art Chaplin has borrowed or paid homage to his parents, mentors, rivals, and the London stage.

Weissman is particularly convincing in helping the reader understand some of the broader themes of Chaplin’s work — a particularly high point is his examination of City Lights as an opportunity for Chaplin to, at last, redeem both his mother and his father.  But what’s important is that Weissman isn’t trying to tell us that Chaplin did all these things as an act of psychic cleansing; rather, he’s helping us see where life experience has influenced some of the artistic decisions Chaplin made.

Further he doesn’t get you in the weeds on psychobabble; Weissman’s language is real, and readable — no long ramblings on Freud or lectures on id suppression or whatever.  His themes are larger than that, which is why you’ll find them more thought provoking — and even where you don’t agree, he hasn’t become so mind-numbingly technical that you think he’s overreaching.  Weissman’s so agreeable, in fact, that it’s like watching Chaplin’s movies with a good friend who’s got a particular insight into a film and doesn’t mind at all if you disagree with him.  Enjoy the film anyway, Weissman would probably say.

In a lively afterword, Weissman also does something no other Chaplin biographer has yet done: he’s dared to accept an extended 1915 interview — later published as Charlie Chaplin’s Own Story before being squashed and disavowed by Chaplin — as a reliable text.  It’s a primary source detective story, and Weissman will tell you convincingly why he believes biographers, and readers, can believe it . . . even when Chaplin himself tries to tell you otherwise.

As usual, I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention that you can read more at Dr. Weissman’s website at www.chaplinalife.com — along with lots of interesting essays, photos, and bits of film.

Walking In The Rain

Agent J and I are back from L.A., not too much worse for wear — Jonathan had it worse than I did, as he flew in Wednesday morning to make the afternoon meeting, then took the red eye back that same night.  But I’m Mister Can’t Sleep On the Plane, so I opted to stay one more night and return yesterday instead.  And given the three hour time change, an L.A.-D.C. flight takes up the better part of a day. 

As for our meeting . . . well, it went about as well as we could have hoped, and made for an incredibly memorable day — which I’ll tell you all about as soon as we know whether we have anything to announce.  And maybe even if we don’t. 

I did manage to take in a few of the sights.  As I had hoped, I made it to Grauman’s Theatre — which, you can see, I pretty much had all to myself:

graumans

The place was vacant for two reasons:  first, I woke up Wednesday morning on Maryland time — meaning 6:30 a.m. East Coast time, which was 3:30 a.m. locally.  I tried to go back to bed, but after tossing for a while, finally got up and went walking.  So I arrived at Grauman’s at 7:00 a.m., well before pretty much anyone except me and a tourist from Denmark, who asked me for directions.  Plus, it was starting to rain, which sent even the early risers heading for the cover of nearby coffee shops and bakeries.

Now, understand that when I left D.C., it was 14 degrees out with snow on the ground — so 55 degrees and rainy seemed positively tropical and certainly wasn’t enough to keep me inside.  I spent most of my morning, then, pacing up and down Hollywood and Vine, leaping over the enormous gushing rivers of rainwater at flooded intersections, with my head down, looking at the stars on the Walk of Fame. 

I’m guessing the stars must be movable, because the area in front of Grauman’s contains stars for today’s more iconic celebrities like Robin Williams, Clint Eastwood, and Whoopi Goldberg.  So if you want to find the old Hollywood legends, you’ve got to work your way up and down several miles of city blocks.  (And I’ll give you a bit of practical advice:  it’s really hard to walk on wet marble sidewalks with heeled cowboy boots.  Trust me on this one.)

Stargazing can be a shock to your system.  Rock Hudson’s star, for example, sits in front of a vacant lot.  Valentino’s is on the way into a record store, Reagan’s in front of a nondescript apartment building.  It’s almost as if the old timers have been discarded or relegated to the cheap seats.  It also makes for some odd juxtapostions when you find, for example, Groucho Marx’s star three steps away from Tony Orlando’s, or Al Jolson’s sitting next to Loretta Swit’s.

There are other moments, however, that are oddly satisfying.  Bela Lugosi’s sits on a prime bit of real estate at the corner of a major intersection (and I’m sure he’d be delighted to know I never found Boris Karloff’s).  Rodney Dangerfield’s has a disrespectful divot in it.  Carl Reiner’s is two steps away from his son Rob’s.   I was thrilled to see there are still stars for folks like Fatty Arbuckle and Mabel Normand, and I officially called it a morning when I finally ran across this one:

chapstar

That was well worth a walk in the rain.

Up, Up and Away!

I’m getting on a plane in a few hours to make my way out west.  It’ll be a quick in and out — I hop back on my return flight early Thursday morning, so there’s not a lot of time for sightseeing.

Still, I’m gonna make a quick run over to Graumann’s, hoping I’ll run into this motley bunch . . .

heroes

. . . from this documentary right here:

And if you haven’t seen Confessions of a Superhero, do it.  Right now.  And remember: Tips! They work for tips!

In Like A Lion

The mega-snowstorm that was moving across the Eastern seaboard was an enormous tease here in the DC area — or at least in our neck of the woods, just northwest of the District.  We went to bed with flurries snuffling around, but no snow on the ground, and awoke to find only a few dry inches blowing around.  I went out at 6 a.m. to shovel and salt our driveway — a 50-yard slab of asphalt that slopes down onto a state highway.  It took about 30 minutes, but things were looking good.

Then the snow really began.

Starting at 6:45 or so, the snow started coming down in heavy slants — at times it looked like it was coming down sideways — quickly covering everything back up, and dumping another eight inches of heavy white stuff in just under two hours.  It came down so fast that the main road through our little town — a state highway that serves as an official Snow Emergency Route — couldn’t be cleared fast enough. 

When I finally revved up the Jeep (smugly engaging its four-wheel drive) and headed out the door for Rockville at about 8:30, things weren’t looking much better.  Here’s Main Street in Damascus, Maryland, through the windshield of my Jeep:

snow2

So much for the Snow Emergency Route.

Anyway, I applaud my fellow Marylanders for their snow savviness — I saw only one spun-out car, and no accidents during my 16 mile commute.  Well played, Merrylanders.

So, while we’re slowed down in the area, we’re not stopped — which meant Barb could drive off into the snowy sunrise this morning to start a brand spanking new job today.  After spending the last few years working in a government lab, then serving a year as a science advisor to a Congressional committee, some wise international sciencey-type firm was smart enough to recruit her for a director’s position.   She’s — we’re — incredibly grateful and fortunate that in this tough economy, she’s actually moving upwards to bigger and better things — including, to her delight, international travel — and I couldn’t be prouder of her.

In other news, the snow also hasn’t been enough to close the airports and prevent me from getting on a plane tomorrow night to meet Agent J out in LA — in Hollywood, actually —  for a conversation on Wednesday with someone rather cool, regarding a fun potential project I’ve taken to calling Project Blue Harvest.*  More to come this week.

*  If you get that joke, you are a true geek and can hang with us at Roscoe’s Chicken & Waffles tomorrow night.  And no, it doesn’t really have anything to do with the potential project we’re discussing.